Pasta two ways

My first real cooking of the year was this pasta: trofiette (a twisted shape that looks homemade but in this case isn't) with a spicy tomato-bacon sauce.

The next day the leftover sauce was doctored up with onions, garlic, and anchovies. The topping was not cheese, but a crunchy mix of breadcrumbs and sliced almonds, toasted and flavoured with olive oil and anchovies. Delicious. It takes a while to toast the almonds and breadcrumbs, but the effort is totally worth it. I can't think of a better thing to do with leftover tomato sauce.

Here are both recipes. They are highly adaptable, so substitute at will and feel free to use more or less of anything. They will make 2 to 3 servings each, and you will probably still have a little tomato sauce leftover. (Maybe I should add a third day recipe?)

First day: troffiete in a spicy tomato-bacon sauce

This is based on arrabbiata, a simple but fiery sauce classically paired with penne. You can use any kind of pasta, but I prefer short, textured pastas that hold the sauce well. I recommend canned whole tomatoes, as the quality is usually better than diced. The tomatoes can be crushed in the pan with a wooden spoon, but if you don't want to be bothered you can substitute diced or crushed tomatoes.

2 tablespoons olive oil
200 grams (7 oz) pancetta or bacon, sliced
1 large onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
125 ml (1/2 cup) dry white wine, optional
2 dried red chilies, sliced lengthwise (or 1/2 tsp crushed chilies)
2 400 ml (14 oz) cans whole tomatoes
Salt to taste
Fresh basil, sliced (optional)

225 grams (1/2 pound) trofiette, penne or other pasta
Grated Parmigginano cheese for the table

In a large heavy pan, heat oil over medium heat and saute bacon until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add onion, reduce heat to medium-low and saute until soft, 10 to 15 minutes. Add garlic and chilies, cook a minute or so, until fragrant.

Add the wine, increase heat to medium-high and simmer about 5 minutes until reduced. Add tomatoes and their liquid, breaking the them against the side of the pan with wooden spoon. Simmer uncovered, stirring often, until sauce is thickened, about  10 to 20 minutes. Season to taste and stir in basil, if using.

Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of salted boiling water until al dente (tender but firm to the bite). Drain, toss with half of the sauce in a large bowl, and serve with cheese at the table.

Second day: farfelle with anchovy tomato sauce

This is based on Mario Batali's St. John's Eve Pasta, from his Molto Italiano cookbook. It's a very anchovy-intensive dish, so feel free to reduce the amount of anchovies for a more subtle flavour. If you'd rather not deal with whole anchovies, you can substitute anchovy paste. The original recipe recommends lasagnette or pappardelle, which are flat, frilly pastas. I prefer panko (Japanese breadcrumbs, available at Japanese or Asian markets), but you can substitute fresh breadcrumbs, or make your own by shredding bread with a mixer or blender.

80 ml (1/3 cup) sliced blanched almonds
250 ml (1 cup) panko
5 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
4 salt-packed anchovies, filleted, rinsed, and chopped
Freshly ground black pepper
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
180 ml (3/4 cup) leftover tomato sauce
Fresh basil, sliced (optional)

225 grams (1/2 pound) farfalle or other pasta

Toast the almonds in a heavy pan over low heat, stirring often and being careful not to burn, until a light golden brown. Remove to bowl. Toast panko the same way, add to bowl with almonds.

Wipe the pan and heat 2 Tbsp of the olive oil over medium-low heat, add anchovies and crush with wooden spoon until smooth, add black pepper to taste. Drizzle over the toasted almonds and panko, tossing to mix evenly.

Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil in the pan over medium-low heat, add the onion, saute until soft. Add the garlic and remaining 2 anchovies, cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomato sauce, increase heat to medium and bring to a simmer. Cook until the sauce is thickened and reduced by about one-third. Add the basil, if using.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta in a large pot of salted boiling water. Drain, toss with sauce in pan, spoon onto plates. Top with the almond-breadcrumb mixture.

Comments

[Kat]

both sound and look really delicious!

[Jenn]

Perfect timing! I've been craving anchovies (I know, what a cliche) so this is something great to do with it. Can't wait to try it.

[carlyn]

Amy;
That trofiette looks wonderful! I don't believe I've ever seen that type of pasta before. I'm going to search the local Italian markets and try these recipes!! Thank you so much....yummmm

[Amy]

Thank you Kat!

Jenn, I hope you do try the recipe. And a belated congratulations!

Carlyn, it was my first time to see it as well, and I really really liked it. It was a small package from an artisinal maker, and expensive!